Roofing solutions, certainly deluge the market; however, to handpick the one suitable for your residence may get a bit overwhelming. Embroilment abounds when you are a pure DIYer looking out for a cutthroat, yet comfortable-at-hand roofing option. Well, here we help you roof your residence without pushing it too far.
For a sector as versatile as home improvement, the metal roofing segment, indeed, has been a competent cynosure. Perhaps, the metal roofing industry, from the outset may seem too colossal to invite perspective. Well, for one, you must know that metal roofs are far beneficial than what you think they are. If you foresee longevity for your residential roof, metal roofing systems is what you must opt for.
Rot- and warp-resistant structures, metal roofs are esthetically designed. They are light-weight and durable to sustain architectural integrity. Metal roofs are color-locked; painted with quality polymers, the color holds on to the roof for years. Homes feel cooler; metal roofs don’t drink down on energy. Metal roofing panels earned recognition when 5V-Crimp panels debuted in the industry — a panel with a classy v-design that works toward structure toughening and bonding. The 5V-Crimp panels, longitudinally measure 24” braced with support ribs at a height of ½”. The traditional v-design is what enhances panel strength. The 5V-Crimp panels are fabricated from 24- or 26-gauge prepainted Galvalume. An aluminum zinc alloy, Galvalume is coated over the metal panels to promote longevity and prevent corrosion.
Before You Begin, Kindly Read This
Disclaimer: Know that this article is meant, primarily for pedagogical purposes, aiding you to comprehend the process of roofing. It is recommended that the reader seeks professional assistance to carry out the roofing process. As with any DIY project of wide-reaching, wide-ranging nature, the foreignness of the sequential structure and equipment may overwhelm the DIYer. Know that these are no words of diasporic discouragement. Construe this note as one conduit to exercising caution.
Note.- Adherence to laws and regulations stipulated for a DIY roofing project should be thoroughly analyzed. The Building Act of 2004 launched the Licensed Building Practitioners scheme, which summates certain projects as “restricted building work.” Abiding by the theoretical definition, there are a set of undertakings that must be dealt by licensed and competent authorities. These undertakings are structures fundamental to the design and architectural endurance of the building. One among these works is that of roofing and cladding. Keen DIYers who would want to ship into a roofing project must be licensed as an expert in the said field. If you cannot claim the post, the construction work should be supervised by a Licensed Building Practitioner. Besides, you may also apply for an Owner-Builder exemption on the grounds of you meeting their conditional criteria. Kindly check for other intricacies in the laws to avoid undue formal actions from authorities.
As a DIYer, indulging in a roofing activity may encourage noise and may invite complaints from fellow neighbors. Know that if you have the right to undertake the task, your neighbors have the right over propertied leisure. Restricting your project to sensible hours during the day helps you avoid unpleasant and uncalled-for spars.
A Note on Panel Storage
As far as possible, plan to install the panels ordered for, soon after they are delivered. Storing them for long may nihil the texture of the roof. If you have no option but to store them, do so, by raising the panel off the floor and resting one end of the panel on a structure that can provide support. Avoid plastic to canopy the metal sheets; use tarps, instead. It would only disembody its property of ventilation, degrading the core quality of the panels by absorbing excess heat and moisture. Inconsiderate weather conditions, too, may derail their overall integrity; instead, store them indoors.
❒ Before getting on to the roof, know the condition on top. Accumulated frost over the roof may not provide the kind of traction you hoped for. Rains can make matters worse; get back to work once the weather is permissible. Likewise, hot and humid weather conditions may not spell good news for your task’s continuity.
❒ Walking on partially secured metal panels is dangerous. The panel may slide off before you realize. Exercise caution.
❒ Skip the roofing activity on a windy day. Fasteners or metal fragments flying around vengefully, courtesy of the wind may take you by surprise and lead to accidents.
❒ Don’t go ahead with a task if you are in doubt. Professional assistance, more often than not, would resolve the issue. Know your limits.
❒ Appropriate underlayment or substrate must be ensured before starting work on site in order to prevent fall-through.
❒ Keep a tab on your position on the roof. Nearing the roof edges may cause fatal falls. If someone else, too, is working on the roof, take attentive note. Know their location, so as to prevent accidentally pushing them off the roof.
❒ Protective gear is a must while roofing your residence. Wearing full-sleeved shirts, full pants, gloves, and safety goggles during the entire process, needless to mention, keeps you protected and prevents injury. Arrange for a lifeline system to tighten the safety measures, especially when working on steeper-than-usual roofs.
Panel Preinstallation Notations
❒ Necessary adjustments are needed if the structure is not square and true. The panels won’t seal out to out if the structure is not what it, ideally should be. To correct the discrepancy, adopt the 3, 4, 5 triangle method. It follows the basic rule of Euclidean Geometry, that of Pythagorean theorem. The formal definition reads “In a right-angled triangle, the area of the square whose side is the hypotenuse is equal to the sum of the the squares of the other two sides.” The equation: a² + b² = c².
❒ Installers, inadvertently use green lumber to support the framework of their roof. It’s a wrong practice. Now, Green lumber is not the kiln-dried lumber; the lumber is damp from the insides. Though cheaper, this lumber may warp overtime and weaken the engineered framework and integrity. Years of heat absorbed by your house with a moisture-locked lumber only leads to creating an environment conducive to molds and fungus. It can lead to further corrosion, damaging the panels in the bargain. Besides, fasteners do not thread well through green lumber.
❒ A 30# roofing felt or moisture barrier must be installed in order to segregate the panel from the ½”–⅝” plywood substrate.
❒ While adopting an angle to cut the panels — i.e., cutting the panels across the profile or with the profile, (by width or length, respectively) — use a portable shear or a nibbler to achieve a profiled appropriation. The textured side of the panel must be laid prone over the underlayment for the finish to not incur damage of any kind.
❒ Clean up any metal shavings produced due to drilling and cutting as they may end up making their way into the panel, causing rust to accumulate in the longer run. The same procedure applies after the screws have been drilled through the panels. Scratches and rust bleeds would be the resultant sight if you fail to brush off metal dust, or screw filings.
Lapping refers to the sequence, which must be followed while applying the panels. The side laps must face in the opposite direction of the prevailing winds. Refer to the illustration provided to assist you with the process. Identify the side that is farthest from the direction of prevailing winds and lay the sheets accordingly. Install the sheets with the end lap of the upper panel covering the surface of the lower panel.
Using appropriate fasteners is an indispensable factor for the success of the project. Put on paper, the type of screws earmarked for roofing panels and the manner of driving them through the floor of the panels. Once you have obtained the right-sized screws, understand how they need to be driven down to achieve weather-tight panels. Know that fastener holes may be predrilled; however, you run a trace of risk, for the metal shavings might get stuck to the panel coat. Using a one-sided sheet or canopy to facilitate a smooth cutting procedure is recommended.
Self-drilling stitch screws 1½” long, ideally must be used to secure panels to purlins. Thread the screws at every purlin, i.e., the flat surface of the panel.
Look for a ring shank design enhanced with a neoprene gasket under the screw head to promise a water-tight structure. However, it is important to note that the screws should not be drilled through the antisiphon side lap. To secure the space between the side laps of the panel, reinforce a bead of double-seal Butyl bead mastic, or a rubber strip sealant.
Facilitating Socket-Fastener Interjection
Rubber washers must be seated before driving down fasteners. Fasten the screws firmly with a screw gun equipped with torque abbreviation and amplification adjustments; this does not mean jamming them in the drilled socket — sufficient torque applied to facilitate thread drive through the predrilled holes is paragon to secure the roof.
Judging Fastener Appropriation
Applying the right amount of torsion to secure the screws is the key to binding the panel perfectly. Overdriving the fastener is as much a taboo as underdriving is. A few pointers may help you identify if you are doing it right.
✘ Underdriving: Notice the washer-screw head engagement. If the screw wobbles, know that that the compression applied to seal the head to the washer was inadequate.
✘ Overdriving: Ensure the screws do not dent or dimple the immediate circumferential fringe of the panel surface. This creates excess friction between the drill point and the fastener. Notice the washer position. The degree of depression created, is beyond the screw fringe. If you see this happen, know that you have overdriven or overtightened the screw, and this is where you defeat the fastener’s purpose. Rainwater may collect in the screw fringe causing leakage.
✔ Sufficient Drive: The washer looks comfortably positioned. In addition, the fastener does not display stress. On the whole, the engagement looks aggregated.
- Self-drilling Stitch Screws — (gauge #10×1”, #10×1½”) — Purpose:Securing purlins
- Self-drilling Wood Grip Screws — (gauge #9×1”, #9×1½”, #9×2”, #9×2½”, #9×3”) — Purpose: Attaches metal-to-lumber and metal-to-wood application
- Trim Pancake/Stitch Screws — (gauge #10×1”) — Purpose: Used in side laps and attachment of trims
- Tapping Screw Sealers (Pack of hundred) — (gauge #14×1”, #14×1½”) — Purpose: Used in metal-to-wood fastening
- Pancake Head Clip Screws — (gauge #12×1”) — Purpose: Used in metal-to-metal framing
- Rubber washers
- Portable Metal Shears/Nibblers
- Double-seal Butyl Bead mastic strip sealant (⅞” x 3/16”, 40′-0”)
- Tube sealant — Prefer: Titebond® Sealant
- Pop Rivet Stainless steel — (Fastener #14, ⅛” x 3/16”)
- Screw gun with Torque Adjustments
- Magnetic drill bits (¼” and 5/16”)
- Marking pencil/Chalk
- Touch-Up Paint — Prefer: Kynar 500®
- Fascia Trim — (2¼” x 7½” 10′ 2” in length) — Prefer: Hemmed Variety
- Mini-style Eave Trim — (3½” x 2½” angle, 10′ 2” standard length, roof pitch as per specification)
- Eave Trim — (3¾” x 3½” x 7/16” drip edge, 10′ 2” standard length)
- Gable/Rake Trim — (4” x 4 ½” angle x ½”–1” drip edge, 10′ 2” standard length)
- Preformed Valley Trim — ( 9” x 9” angle, 1” diverter height)
- Transition (Pitch Break) Trim — (4” x 5” x 1 ½” drip edge, 10′ 2” standard length, roof pitch as per specification)
- Gambrel Trim — (4” x 6” angle, 10′ 2” standard length)
- Hip Trim — (5” x 5” angle x 1½” drip edge, 10′ 2” standard length)
- Ridge Trim — (4¾” x 2” x 1” ridge slope on both sides of the trim, 12”–14” standard length, roof pitch as per specification. It should, ideally be equipped with externally baffled rolled ridge vent.)
- High Side Peak Trim — (5½” x 3½” angle x ½” drip edge and a ½” wing on the other side, 10′ 2” standard length, roof pitch as per specification)
- Side Wall Trim — (4” x 5” angle x ½” slope and ½” drip edge, 10′ 2” standard length)
- End Wall Trim — (4” x 5 ½” angle x ½” wing, 10′ 2” standard length, roof pitch as per specification)
- Outside Closure Strip — (½” x 24″, 12″ Peak-to-peak Pitch)
- Inside Closure Strip — (½” x 24″, 12″ Peak-to-peak Pitch)
- Expanding Closure — (1″ x 1″ x 19′ 8″)
- It is a type of panel that borders the eave and the gable of the roof, which thus lines the interior segments of a low-slope roof. This is the surface where the rain gutter would be attached. Line the fascia trim along the eaves and the gables to cover the peripheries of the roof. This flashing is preferential as it works toward enhancing the esthetic persona of the roof.
- Begin at the corners of the roof, positioning the trim proximal to the soffit — the underside of the roof. This is where you understand the spanning of the trim.
- Predrill the fascia before installation, and fasten it every 36” along the butt ends at the bottom of the trim. Use Self-drilling Wood grip screws (referred to as “wood screws” in the illustrations) for the purpose of securing the trim to the soffit, or the moisture barrier and substrate. Trim Pancake/Stitch Screws (referred to as “stitch screws” in the illustrations) would secure the fascia to the side laps. Do not overdrive the screw into the fascia.
- Overdriven nails work like expansion retardants. Ideally, 1” to 2” overlap of the trim must be accommodated where the lengths intersect.
- It is an L-Shaped trim installed over the moisture barrier providing weather-tightness, thereby also enhancing the appearance.
- Use Trim Pancake/Stitch Screws to fasten the butt ends of the trim to cover the entire length. Space each screw 2” from the fastener.
- The inside closure must be installed over the mini eave trim.
- Install the 5V-Crimp panel, considering the eave trim overhang of 1”. Ensure that the panels you install are square and true.
- A trim characterized as the lowest part of the roof, lining the attached gutter edge. This accessory must be fastened prior to installing the 5V-Crimp panels.
- Attach the eave trim to the roof deck with Pancake Head Clip Screws or Trim Pancake/Stitch Screws. Consider using fasteners every 2” of the trim surface. The screws must cover the complete length of the eave trim.
- The eave drip must cover the topmost edge of the fascia.
- Attach the inside closure, which serves to seal or watertight the panels.
- Eave trims when pieced, must, ideally be overlapped to 3-inches.
- Attach the panels at the eave with Self-drilling Wood grip screws.
- Possessing a dual identity, the gable trim is an accessory fastened to the edges of the roof, clutching the edge of the eave to the ridge. It is a triangular segment of the end wall of a structure.
- Install the roofing panels considering the same plane as the gable edge with Self-drilling Wood grip screws, leaving an overhang of minimum 1” to attach the drip edge. Intermittent checks to ensure that the panels are square and true is important to the corroboration of the project.
- Secure Double-seal Butyl Bead mastic strip sealant along the lower profile of the panel.
- Install the rake trim beginning at the butt end of the eave trim. Make sure that the other rake trim pieces must overlap the piece that lies underneath by 4”, using the lapping pattern that has been described in the “lapping pattern” section of this article.
- Fasten the rake/gable trim with Trim Pancake/Stitch Screws distancing them 2” apart from each other.
- They are accessories positioned at an internal angle fabricated due to an interjection of the two roof pitches. They divert the rainwater off the roof rather than having it seep through the panels.
- The preformed valley trim must be fastened with Trim Pancake/Stitch Screws on the waterproof/moisture membrane.
- Maintain a distance of 2” between the screws. The pieces that are attached after the first must overlap the piece under them by 4”.
- Install an expanding closure each at the sides of the valley; they should be parallel to each other and the distance between the valley and each expanding closure on both sides must be equal.
- Now, install the 5V-Crimp panel leaving a minimum of 3” from the water diverter valley on both sides, and fasten it with tapping Screw Sealers maximum 4” on center.
- A flashing that prevents the issue of leakage where two sloping roof planes intersect, thereby providing rainwater a smooth transition through the roof pitches.
- Install the panel by leaving an overhang of 1” at the eave edge; panels must be square and true.
- Secure the panel with Trim Pancake/Stitch Screws at a distance of 2” between the screws.
- Allow the outside closure to seat itself along the upper edge of the panel.
- Attach the transition/pitch break trim using Trim Pancake/Stitch Screws. Space the screws 16” to 18” apart from each other along the length of the trim. The screw must drive through the outside closure also drilling through the panel installed beneath.
- Moving on to the section, 2” above the bend, place the inside closure serving to be the barrier in preventing insect infestations and buildup of debris.
- Measure 1” above the transition bend, and place the 5V-Crimp panel over the closure, leaving a minimum of 1” overhang.
- Tapping Screw Sealers or Self-drilling Wood grip screws would be ideal fasteners. Refer to fastening guidelines if you require any assistance in the process.
- It is a flashing that is to be fastened beginning from the low slope to a steep slope. Begin by installing the panel with its lower edge leaving an eave overhang of 1”.
- Trim Pancake/Stitch Screws must be fastened at the flat surface of the panel.
- Install the outside closure on the upper edge of the panel followed by placing the gambrel trim over it with the help of Trim Pancake/Stitch Screws.
- Space the screws 18” apart from each other; however, the spacing should be such that one screw injects the outside closure and the roofing panel, simultaneously.
- Moving 2” above gambrel bend, apply inside closure spanning the length of the trim.
- Space the panel roof 1” from above the gambrel bend, and fasten it with Self-drilling Wood grip screws.
- This is a flashing attached at the external angle formed when two roof pitches intersect, spanning from the ridge to the eaves. Install the 5V-Crimp panel over the waterproof membrane leaving an eave trim overhang of 1”. Use Tapping Screw Sealers to fasten the panel to the moisture barrier.
- Place the hip trim over the panel to derive the centerline, and place the expanding closure, accordingly.
- Install the expanding closure 1” above the panel upper edge, parallel to each other from the centerline to the rising hip of the trim.
- Now, install the hip trim over the expanding closure, and fasten it with Self-drilling Wood grip screws distancing them 18” along the length of the hip trim.
- A ridge is a cap applied to seal the the meeting point of two sloping roofs that form a horizontal line. Venting Material applied before installing the ridge trim serves purposeful as it can remain ventilated. It is important for siphoning the moist air from the rafter region.
- Fasten the roofing panel over the moisture barrier and the substrate with Tapping Screw Sealers.
- Line the ridge vent with externally baffled rolled ridge vent.
- Install the ridge trim over the vented ridge material application. Fasten the trim with Self-drilling Wood grip screws spacing them 18”, spanning the complete ridge trim.
- A type of roof trim, high side peak trim is meant to be applied to the peak of the roof to prevent water seepage through the panels. Begin by ensuring that the panels are square and true to avoid discrepancies of any kind. Thereafter, install the panel leaving an overhang edge of eave trim by 1” securing it with Tapping Screw Sealers.
- Place the outside closure 1” below the top edge of the panel. Install the high side peak trim over the outside closure at an angle. Drill the Trim Pancake/Stitch Screws through the trim, the closure and the panel.
- Along the height of the wall, drill Trim Pancake/Stitch Screws along the length of the high side peak trim ending close to the cleat.
- A flashing that is used in the internal area where the side wall connects the lower roof. It prevents leakage. Install the panel leaving an overhang edge of eave trim by 1”. Secure the panel with Self-drilling stitch screws.
- Double-seal Butyl Bead mastic strip sealant would come into use as you apply it covering the entire length of the panel platform.
- Install the side wall trim over the butyl bead mastic, and lap it with the following trim ends considering a space of 4”. Fasten the trim on the vertical wall side of roof with Self-drilling Wood grip screws.
- Apply a tube sealant along the trim, sealing any void between the trim and the panel. Smooth out the sealant so that there is no moisture retention/penetration, or insect infestation.
- It is a flashing used to digress any probability of water seepage where the end wall and the lower roof pitch intersect. Install the 5V-Crimp panel over the substrate and the moisture barrier.
- Overhang eave trim by 1” and fasten it with Self-drilling Wood screws.
- Install the outside closure 1” below the upper edge through the entire length of the panels.
- Now, place the end wall trim over the outside closure, with each trim installed 4” higher than the one below it.
- Fasten the trim with Self-tapping screws, drilling the screw through the end wall trim, the outside closure, and the panel. Self-tapping screws must line the trim extending through the length of the vertical wall. Distance the screws 2” apart from each other covering the entire length of the trim.
- Apply a tube sealant to fill the space between the end wall accessory and the wall.
Installing the Pipe Boot Flashing
Also known as the Flashing Collar or a Roof Jack, a Pipe Boot Flashing drops under the blanket-accessory section. It covers the pipe vents that penetrate through the roof. Instructional notes are provided herein, to assist you with the installation procedure.
Step 1. Start by making a hole in the flashing, which is approximately 20% diametrically smaller than the diameter of the pipe.
Step 2. You must now slide down the pipe boot. The base of the boot is made of aluminum. Maneuver with it for the base to sit snugly at the 5V-Crimp panel.
Step 3. Using a urethane tube sealant, circle it around the periphery of the flashing, thereby also sealing any vacant spaces between the flashing and the panel. Engage the flashing thoroughly onto the surface of the roof.
Step 4. To complete the process, fasten the base of the pipe boot flashing with Self-drilling stitch screws and Wood grip screws. A touch-up paint to even out the pitch may deem the roof complete.
Typical Sequence of Installation
1. Begin with the underlayment, which is 30# felt waterproof membrane or moisture barrier. The manufacturer/consultant may advise another type of barrier to be used as the roofing underlayment. Consider his opinion as well.
2. The next is to line the fascia trim across the gable ends and the eave of the roof.
3. Line the fascia with the eave trim covering only the eave section of the roof.
4. Install the valley trim progressing from the eave upwards, in the valley sections of the roof keeping the lapping pattern in the loop.
5. Install the 5V-Crimp panels, lapping the eave trim and the valley trim. However, the fastening of the panels must be left for later.
6. Hip trim must now be installed at edges of the panel.
7. Install the ridge trim over the hip trim and the interjections of the hip and the valley of the roof.
8. Transition trims are to be fastened where the roof features a pitch break.
9. Install and fasten the 5V-Crimp panels, leaving no region without the panel cover. The 5V-Crimp panels must lap the high slopes of the roof, thereby completing the paneling process.
10. Install the gable trim along the gable edges of the roof mounted over the Crimp panels.
11. The gable/rake trims ought to be followed-up by installing the high side peak trims, while lapping the panels.
12. Apply ridge trims over regions or edges that were deprived of the trim due to other preceding installation procedures.
13. The side wall trim must line the side wall of the roof, lapping the panels.
14. End wall trim must be installed at the end wall intersecting junctions.
Common Issues Broached by a DIYer
A roofing project takes more than just accessories and equipment to get started. It is more like an event that requires focus and planning. Most homeowners focus and plan well, too; however, what they lack is research and this, by far, is the most important component to tag a roofing project successful. This section addresses major concerns that homeowners and DIYers are faced with, while planning for a metal roof installation.
Majority question the reliability of a metal roof with regard to its conduction of lightening. To say the least, metal roofing bears the lightening, but does not draw it in. A metal roof, by far, is non-combustible; however, a specialized underlayment might be the requirement pertaining to certain laws and codes. As far as disturbance from rain and hail-thumping sounds is concerned, having a well-profiled metal roofing style would act as a barrier to truncate the lashing sounds. Giving no false hopes though, be prepared to have a marginal degree of sound reach you. It would be less, but it would be there. Consult a contractor, who may help you with this matter. He might advise the installation of a roofing solution that helps bar the transmission of sound. Environmentally friendly, metal roofs are reckoned to be green and cool. Its longevity makes it the most sought after sustainable product. Cool roofing solutions, as the term suggests, is believed to keep you cool and comfortable indoors, while the heat is at its best outdoors. It is courtesy of the superior coatings applied to the pitch of the roof, which possesses the quality of reflectance.